Simple Perfection – Julia Child’s Salade Nicoise

 

By Kerry Shelby

 

I usually don’t opt for a salad as a main course. I may have the occasional Cobb if it sounds well-constructed, but generally a salad for me means a simple Caesar that comes just before a fat, juicy rib-eye! There is one notable exception, however — Julia Child’s Salade Nicoise. I specify Julia’s version because that is the one I fell in love with many years ago. She based it on one she had at the airport in Nice that she never forgot.

 

 

It is the absolute perfect lunch on a warm afternoon, accompanied by inappropriately cold Chablis and good conversation. There are a few steps involved, but all are easy and many can be done ahead. The salad is a simple combination of potato salad, green beans, tuna and a few other add-ons topping a bed of butter lettuce, but the ending result is greater than its parts. I would tell you to improvise, but I consider Julia’s arrangement to be perfect just the way it is.

 

 

Julia’s Salade Nicoise

 

For the potato salad, steam 1 pound of small new potatoes in a steamer basket positioned over a saucepan of simmering water until the potatoes yield easily to a poke from a knife, about 10-15 minutes. Meanwhile, combine 1/3 cup white wine, 1/3 cup cold water, 1 tablespoon finely diced shallot, 3 or 4 tablespoons of good olive oil, salt and black pepper in a medium bowl. When potatoes are done, cut in half and gently add them to the bowl. Using a bulb baster so as not to break up the potatoes, baste occasionally with the wine mixture as the potatoes cool.

 

 

For the green beans, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil (Julia insists that the large portion of water and rapid cooking contributes to maintaining the beans’ brilliant green color). Toss in the beans and cook until just barely tender but retaining a bit of crunch. Drain immediately and dump in a scoop of ice to stop the cooking. When cool, pat dry and refrigerate.

 

 

For the dressing, combine grated zest from ½ lemon, ½ tablespoon Dijon mustard, ½ tablespoon finely diced shallot, 1 tablespoon lemon juice , 1/3 cup good olive oil, salt and pepper. Shake or stir vigorously and taste for seasoning.

 

 

To assemble the salad, lightly drizzle butter lettuce leaves with some dressing and add to serving plates, leaving a space in the middle. Carefully spoon some potatoes into the middle of each plate. Drain and gently flake 2 8-ounce cans Italian tuna packed in olive oil, add a squeeze of lemon juice and black pepper, and mound on each plate. Add a halved hard-cooked egg to each plate and top each half with crossed anchovy filets. Toss green beans with dressing and divide among the plates. Quarter 2 very ripe tomatoes and divide between plates, sprinkling with sea salt. Scatter pitted Nicoise or Kalamata olives, some good, fat capers and chopped parsley over the salad and serve as soon as possible.

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