BY KERRY SHELBY
Cocktail hour is everyone’s favorite time of day. The day’s work is done, the evening lies ahead with great promise, and the mood is relaxed and easy. It also happens to fall about halfway between lunch and dinner, so people are hungry but not starving. That’s why I believe that any proper cocktail hour should include a simple, easy-to-nibble snack. We’re not trying to fill people up, just give them a bite to keep them going (and somewhat sober) until dinner.
Something salty is always a good bet with strong drinks. Rather than reach for the can of mixed nuts again, take about 10 minutes and make tapenade, the pungent, slightly exotic olive spread that brings to mind the warm breezes of the south of France. It’s perfect with everything from an ice-cold martini to a bubbly glass of Champagne. It is simple to make, but its complex taste makes it interesting and somewhat mysterious.
The word tapenade originates from the Provencal word for capers, tapeno, although its principal ingredient is olives. It is an ancient spread that is mentioned as far back as the first century AD. The ingredients are obviously ancient as well: Olives, garlic, capers, cured tuna.
Wait, tuna? This is where the arguing starts. Tapenade is not one clearly defined thing. Like a curry or a gumbo, everyone has their own recipe. Some people insist on four or five anchovy filets instead of tuna. Some use both. I prefer tuna because I find it to be more subtle and it gives the spread a velvety texture. Another fork in the road is which herbs to add. Any subtle herb, such as thyme, chervil, savory or parsley, works just fine. Thyme reminds me of warm, fragrant fields in Provence, which is what we’re going for here, so that’s my choice. To rinse or not to rinse? Olives, anchovies and capers are all salty, so some recommend rinsing. I prefer the saltier taste, so I do not.
As far as preparation, a mortar and pestle is traditional but a lot of work. A food processor works just fine as long as you carefully pulse it just enough to make a course spread. Too much and you will have a liquid-y, limp sauce, not a spread.
As with all dishes, start with this recipe, then experiment and make it your own. Try using it on roast chicken and pasta as well.
Traditional Tapanade
Pit about 1 pound nicoise or Kalamata olives and add to the bowl of a food processor. Chop a smallish garlic clove and pitch it in. Add 1 can Italian tuna packed in olive oil (no need to drain), ½ cup of fat capers, 1 teaspoon fresh thyme, ½ cup good olive oil and 2 tablespoons brandy. Pulse slowly until the mixture reaches the consistency of a course spread. Serve with warm pita toasts or rounds of toasted French baguette.
Makes: About 2½ cups
Drink pairing: Cold cocktails, French rose or Champagne
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