WHERE IN THE WORLD: FUNCHAL, MADEIRA ISLAND, PORTUGAL

Travel notes from the tour zone with George Fontana

We entered Funchal’s port in darkness. The streetlights strung up and down its hillsides appeared as so many twinkling amber necklaces. On a knoll, a church and its steeple were outlined in white lights. The entire scene resembled a festive holiday setting. In the daylight, Funchal was equally enchanting. With elements of all the best of Europe – Cinque Terra, Alpine villages, broad tree-lined promenades, charming winding lanes bordered by cozy cafes, whitewashed buildings spilling down the hillsides, now peaceful fortifications, lush plantings – craggy, volcanic Madeira had somehow slipped under my radar. The steep slopes are terraced and planted with bananas (a major export), grapes (Madeira, My Dear?), olives and all manner of agriculture which is grown year round in the mild climate. The working fishing village of Camara de Lobos (a holiday retreat favored by Winston Churchill) could have been lifted from the Algarve, the Italian or French Riviera or any of the Greek isles. The views of Funchal from the Monte overlook revealed a sprawling seaside city with handsome architecture, an inviting waterfront, numerous green parks with flowering plants, fountains and benches and a cosmopolitan, but relaxed vibe. I happened upon the mustard colored Fortaleza Sao Tiago upon a holiday and was offered free admission. The old fort, built on a rock escarpment with commanding views the sea, now houses a museum and a cliff-hanging restaurant. Madeira, the last port on our world cruise, was a most fitting finale to our global adventure.

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