Tuna Two Ways

 

By Kerry Shelby

 

From late fall to early summer, tuna move into the warm waters off Key West. The majority are of the blackfin variety, which reach only about 30 pounds, while the less common yellowfin can get as big as 200 pounds. Unfortunately, their much larger cousin, the bluefin, is becoming increasingly scarce and is rarely seen in Keys waters these days. One of the most determined fighting fish in the ocean, tuna provide fishermen with an exhilarating, exhaustive battle and their fatty, reddish-pink meat provides island cooks with a number of delicious opportunities.

The preparations below give the cook a couple of equally tasty options, depending on your mood and the quality of the fish that day. You can even change your mind halfway through since both are based on a mix of fresh tuna, Asian sauces and vegetables. Both are beautiful options for this magnificent fish.

Tuna Tartare

Chill 1 pound of fresh tuna loin in the refrigerator for at least an hour.

In a bowl, combine 2 thinly sliced scallions, 1 tablespoon of mayonnaise (I only use Duke’s Light or Hellman’s Light, great taste and half the calories!), ¼ teaspoon Scotch Bonnet pepper (seeded and finely chopped), zest from ½ of a lime and 3 tablespoons of low-sodium soy sauce.

Remove the tuna from the refrigerator. Using a very sharp knife, cut the meat into small cubes, being careful to cut cleanly rather than tearing. Add tuna to the bowl and gently combine with the other ingredients. For excellent tuna tartare, stop here and allow the flavors to combine for 10 minutes at room temperature. To serve, top with a little cilantro and a squeeze of lime juice and spread onto thin crackers or kettle potato chips. For pan-seared tuna burgers, continue with these steps.

Tuna Burgers with Ginger Chili Sauce

Prepare the tuna mixture described above and heat the oven to 425 degrees.

Add ½ cup of finely chopped red bell pepper, a slightly beaten egg, ¼ cup panko bread crumbs and ¼ cup olive oil to the bowl and gently toss again to combine. Shape the tuna into medium patties and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.

Mix 1½ tablespoons each of Sriracha (hot) and Ma Ploy (sweet) chili sauces with 1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger. Set aside.

Toast 4 sesame seed hamburger buns and spread the ginger chili sauce on each side.

Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in a large skillet. Gently place the tuna burgers into the pan, shoring up their shape with a spatula, and sear over medium heat for about 4 minutes, until you see a brown crust forming underneath. Ever so gently, using two spatulas, turn the burgers over, reshape if necessary and transfer to the oven for about 3-5 minutes. Remove the burgers directly onto the buns, top with a little cilantro and a squeeze of lime juice and dig in!

Either preparation serves 4

Wine pairing: This is a slightly spicy summertime dish, so go with a cold, not-too-oaky California Chardonnay like Liberty School.

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