What’s the Apps? / Latitudes

Dakin Weekley

Wind in your hair and some salt spray, and after a short boat trip we are there. Sunset Key, the island formerly known as Tank Island, is where Latitudes sits perched on the knife-edge of the small island, romantically sprinkled with palm trees and with a view from every angle of the stripes of aqua and green and deep blue of the Gulf. So close to Key West, yet a complete twist on the ordinary. And it’s the same for much of the menu at Latitudes, taking the expected and making it unique.

It’s a breezy day where we sit oceanside, and I order a Mauryan Sour, one of Latitudes’s signature collection. It is a blend of Woodford Bourbon, cardamom infused agave syrup, lemon, and orange juice and served with ice and an orange garnish. It is, as expected, sweet and sour, but the added herbal flavor of cardamom compliments the orange and lemon to twist, and the bite of the bourbon is then subdued but still present.

We order a couple of things to start, and the Burrata Cheese arrives first. Thick slices of the soft mozzarella are served on top of fried green tomatoes slices and heaped with arugula, with accents of red onion and a balsamic reduction drizzle. It’s certainly not what you might expect from other fine dining experiences from burrata, but it’s one of the best I’ve had, because the pairing with the crispiness and tanginess of the fried green tomatoes, the sweetness of red onion and the reduction, and the bitterness of the greens comes together in a mouth-watering harmony. Not to mention, the portion is generous.

We decide next on the Grilled Conch Fritters based on suggestion from our server, who was attentive and charming and helpful in narrowing down the many terrific options. These conch fritters are griddled flat, unlike any conch fritters I’ve had in a lifetime in the Keys. They had thick bites of conch and were stacked and layered with a French-inspired corn sauce, sweet bell pepper relish, and ancho oil, finished with micro greens.

For my main plate I have the Maine Lobster Salad. This is a twist on a traditional Cobb salad, and it tops the list of best salads I’ve ever had. The artisan greens are tossed and lightly dressed in a balsamic vinaigrette, and the lobster is abundant and piled on top. The goat cheese, fingerling potatoes, avocado, bacon, chopped egg and tomatoes come piled around the lobster, making this dish quite the showpiece. And while it is a healthy portion, there wasn’t a bite left when I was through.

This short journey to someplace off the beaten path is more than fine dining at its best, it is also inviting, accepting, and transporting. The short boat ride back brings you into port where you left only a short while ago, but getting off the ferry a few short steps from the bustle of Duval has you reflecting on the peaceful tropic scene you left behind. Be sure to make a reservation and take your time when you head to Sunset Key to enjoy both a meal and a getaway.

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