Tropic Sprockets / Marcella

By Ian Brockway

The well-known chef and teacher Marcella Hazan (1924-2013) is profiled in Peter Miller’s documentary “Marcella”. The film is detailed if somewhat conventional. Breezy and informative, one gets a definite impression of the woman if not the full scope. [Showtimes and trailer at Tropiccinema.com]

Marcella Hazan was born in 1924 in the Italian town of Cesenatico, a port city. When Marcella was seven years of age, she broke her arm. Medical malpractice caused gangrene, and doctors were adamant that amputation was necessary. Her mother took her to an orthopedic doctor with abilities akin to the supernatural and Marcella had no need of amputation. The procedure she endured left her with a stiff and clenched right hand which gave her shame and insecurity.

Marcella received two doctoral degrees in Ferrara in science and biology. She soon met Victor, and the pair wished to marry but Victor’s parents were very against the marriage due to Marcella’s Catholicism and her right hand. But the couple found a way in spite of their in-laws.

When married Victor expected home cooked meals every day. They moved to New York City and Marcella learned to cook, inspired by her childhood memories. She began giving cooking lessons and then Craig Claiborne of the New York Times asked her to contribute articles and recipes. Marcella published The Classic Italian Cookbook in 1973. It did not sell well, but through the legendary Julia Child, she met the assistant at Knopf Judith Jones who secured a publishing deal.

The book became compulsory reading for chefs and cooking enthusiasts.

Marcella established her place in cuisine for delivering simple dishes to American consciousness during the 1950s, when Italian fare was not the norm with many ingredients unavailable.

It is safe to say without exaggeration that Marcella popularized Italian American Cuisine.

Marcella is known for her distinctive tomato sauce (oddly involving butter with the removal of onion) and her very savory Chicken with Two Lemons with a title nodding to Pablo Picasso. She also discussed sun-dried tomatoes and is still considered the master of the artichoke. Though she has a soft spot for balsamic, it is too ubiquitous in cooking and dressing and has become less vital.

Marcella loved Venice and the city is richly featured here. The chef achieved household fame appearing on Today, Regis and Kathy Lee and Good Morning America.

Marcella was outspoken, quirky and at times ferocious, she had no need for the limelight, preferring to only deliver her joy of cooking, highlighting gustatory intimacy, experience, and delight.

Marcella eschewed red wine, but she was an unabashed smoker and savored bourbon.

The film largely avoids pathos and dramatic tension but does mention Marcella’s disastrous falling out with Judith Jones.

For those wanting drama and controversy, one is better served with Anthony Bourdain. But if you are looking for simple, buoyant, and classic viewing here is Marcella Hazan, smiling mischievously in swirls of cigarette smoke, twirling a finger of bourbon.

Write Ian at [email protected]

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