TERRY’S PICKY PALATE / Sublime ceviche and a Key Lime Margarita at Turtle Kraals on the Key West Harbor Walk

BY TERRY SCHMIDA

With its rustic interior, imaginative menu, and sweeping views of the Key West Bight, Turtle Kraals, located at 231 Margaret St., has always been one of my favorite local restaurants. In fact, it’s where I ate my first meal in Key West, on the day I first moved here, nearly 22 years ago.

I have to say though, T.K.’s has got even better in recent years, under the new ownership of Pat Croce & Co. The menu has expanded both in the number of offerings, and in the variety of flavors. This waterfront landmark still features the traditional barbecue and seafood, and Southwest fusion cuisine it’s always been known for, but now features new Cuban dishes, and, much to my delight, ceviche.

I’ve long been a fan of this healthy Latin American seafood delicacy, based upon raw seafood cured in citrus and spices, and T.K.’s selection doesn’t disappoint. Yelp ranks the restaurant No. 1 for ceviche in South Florida, and the eatery got great public feedback on its Key West and Peruvian ceviche, at the most recent Taste of Key West contest.

Upon my arrival, General Manager Ignacio “Iggy” Gonzalez informs me I’m to be served a :”Flight” sampling of four different varieties, including the Key West, Nikkei, Freeport, and, of course – Peruvian. A generous helping of corn chips, for dipping, is also included.

Each of these dishes has its own distinct flavor, thanks to the expertise of Chef Ricardo Martinez, and his team, one of whom actually went to Peru four years ago to study and perfect T.K.’s ceviche recipes and methods.

Martinez’ delectable Peruvian ceviche is a winner, and features yellowtail snapper blended with red onion, sweet potato, corn, celery, aji and cilantro, with key lime leche de tigre.

Next up is the Freeport, with tender queen conch, homemade lime marinade, red and green bell peppers, ahi amarillo, red onion, cilantro, and local sea salt. As I’m writing, I can still remember just how delicious this one was, almost like a conch salad, but even more flavorful.

The Key West ceviche is a real treat, too, blending diver caught hogfish with avocado, sour orange, jalapeno, cherry tomatoes, and basil. It’s enough to make a convert of even the most skeptical diner.

My personal favorite, though, is also “Iggy” Gonzalez’ first choice.

The Nikkei pleases with grouper, yuzu, tamarind, sesame, soy, ginger, and candied lime, with Thai basil, and chives.

“I really can’t get enough of this one,” Gonzalez said. “I love them all, but I could eat this one here all day.”

My mouth is alive now, with the taste of spicy peppers and citrus, and Gonzalez has just the solution. He orders me a Key Lime Margarita, T.K.’s most popular drink, which contains Margaritaville Coconut Tequila, Key Lime liqueur, sour mix, and lime juice, with a graham cracker rubbed rim. It’s the perfect accompaniment to the fish.

“This is our best-selling drink for sure,” Gonzalez said. “I don’t really like margaritas, but I love this one. The coconut tequila gives it a special twist I’ve never tasted before.”

I haven’t either. But as with the ceviche, I’ll definitely be back for more.