Terry’s Picky Palate: Shrimp & Grits and Shanghai Calamari at the Ocean Grill & Bar in Duval Square
BY TERRY SCHMIDA
The name may have recently changed – from Square One, to the Ocean Grill & Bar, – but fortunately, the well-earned reputation for quality at this eatery, in Duval Square, remains one of the highest on the island.
On a visit last week, I informed chef/co-owner Lea Fettis of our review format: One appetizer and one drink, of his choice.
Fettis wasn’t having it.
“You really have to try our Shrimp & Grits AND our Shanghai Calamari,” he said, with obvious pride.
As for the beverage, it’s a “Conquistador,” an in-house creation with a decidedly South American bent.
Fettis is on the money with his recommendations. The tasty Shrimp & Grits is one of his own award-winning creations, which he has since brought along with him to all of his restaurant ventures in Key West.
The dish features grilled white jumbo Gulf shrimp, paired with a creamy, buttery preparation of that famous southern boiled cornmeal preparation. That the shrimp would be delectable was a forgone conclusion, but it was the rest of the appetizer that made a believer of this grits-suspicious reporter, with the addition of Fontina, goat cheese, and roasted corn butter sauce.
“I originally developed it for the Master Chef Classic years ago,” Fettis said. “It won the People’s Choice and Best Appetizer awards, so I knew I was onto something with it.”
The calamari is equally irresistible, and melt-in-your-mouth tender, with a decidedly Asian bent. The breaded squid is flash-fried, and tossed in a delightful chili/honey garlic sauce, and garnished with peanuts, scallions, and cilantro.
“We kept this from the Square One menu, but have improved upon it,” Fettis said. “It’s prepared with all Korean ingredients, and is not your typical presentation. The peanuts and cilantro really bring out the flavors of the dish.”
Both dishes were served in generous portions.
As for the Conquistador, it’s made with Peruvian Pisco, a type of South American grape brandy, as well as blood orange liqueur and habanero syrup, shaken and served with mint and lime in a salt-rimmed old-fashioned glass. The effect is one that is both tart and sweet at the same time.
“It’s kind of a mix between a mojito and a margarita,” Fettis said. “And we make it from scratch. It’s a unique cocktail.”
Again, Fettis is on the money.
The Ocean Grill &Bar is open from 9 a.m. to 11 p.m. daily for breakfast/brunch, lunch and dinner, with an occasional late-night menu.
For more information, call 305-296-4300, or visit http://www.oceangrillandbar.com/
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