TERRY’S PICKY PALATE / Pork Belly and a white Pinot Noir at Firefly Key West in Bahama Village

BY TERRY SCHMIDA
For a while now I’ve been meaning to get in to Firefly Key West, at 223 Petronia St., beguiled by its promise of “chef-driven Southern” cuisine.
This bright light of the Bahama Village restaurant scene is popular with locals and tourists alike for its wide selection of craft beers and fabulous brunches, but I’d heard that its “supper” menu and wine list were equally intriguing, so I decided to visit at night.
This turned out to be a good choice.
Owner Tricia Coyne greeted me, and presented me with a menu and a copy of Firefly’s extensive wine list; some 75 labels, with 20 wines available by the glass.
I ended up going with the Pan-Seared Pork Belly, with house-smoked pulled pork, served with baked sea island red peas and orange fennel slaw. This was an inventive and delicious feast, created by Chef Rus Ferstle, ex of Louie’s upstairs, utilizing the red peas in place of baked beans, and an update on traditional coleslaw.
“He cures the pork belly for 14 days before cooking it,” Coyne said. “Then, instead of smoking it, he braises it in red wine, tomatoes, onion, celery, leeks and seasoning. The pickled onions on top are from scratch. We also make and smoke the pulled-pork in-house.”
With this decidedly different meal, Coyne recommends a wine that’s also quite distinctive.
That would be a 2016 Left Coast white Pinot Noir, a new addition to Firefly’s growing cellar.
“White wine is the traditional pairing with pork,” Coyne said. “But this white is a little different. It actually starts off with the same process they use to make rose, so there’s a little bit of sweetness there.”
With its fantastic sophisticated yet stick-to-the-ribs cuisine, this exceptional restaurant should be on everybody’s “must-visit” list.
Personally, I’ll be back sooner, rather than later!
Firefly Key West is open for brunch from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. Monday through Friday, and from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. Saturday and Sunday. Supper is served from 6 to 10 p.m. seven days a week. Brunch delivery is available during the week, and credit cards are accepted.
To book a table, or for more information, call 305-849-0104, or visit http://www.fireflykeywest.com/
CUTLINE:
Firefly Key West owner Tricia Coyne presents her Pan-Seared Pork Belly entree, paired with a glass of 2016 Left Coast white Pinot Noir.
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