TERRY’S PICKY PALATE / Chef Graham Dailey at Cafe Marquesa Delivers Carolina Low Country Cuisine
BY TERRY SCHMIDA
KONK LIFE STAFF WRITER
This one was a real treat for me.
In nearly 23 years of eating out in Key West I had never dined at Cafe Marquesa, located in the Marquesa Hotel complex at Simonton and Fleming streets. It just appeared too rich for my blood, (though a glimpse at the menu at http://marquesa.com/cafe-
I now realize that every dollar disbursed at this cozy bistro is money well spent, on fantastic food, ambiance, attentive and knowledgeable service – and even prime people-watching through its large windows on a prime downtown corner
But the biggest draw of any restaurant is the food, and I can honestly say that my culinary experience there contributed to one of the greatest meals I’ve ever eaten.
I was presented with smaller-than-usual portions in order to facilitate the sampling of a menu that has sizzled to life with Executive Chef Graham Dailey, ex of the famed Peninsula Grill, in Charlston, S.C. (Dailey is also the co-author of a book “Served with Style” on that storied fine dining establishment.
I started, as do all patrons, with a complimentary “amuse-bouche,” a crostini topped with imported prosciutto, grilled asparagus, and slices of golden tomatoes.
Next up was an allotment of Shrimp & Grits like none I’ve tasted before. Yes, the shrimp was local and fresh; the grits were, creamy, buttery and delicious, and the accompanying chopped Andouille sausage, tomato, and scallion, were all of top quality – as was the tender diver scallop adorning the dish.
For the above two courses my vigilant server, Tanya Kiverina recommended a 2016 Pine Ridge Chenin Blanc Viognier white blend from the restaurant’s well-appointed full-liquor bar; I opted for a bottle of San Pellegrino sparkling water.
Then we moved on to the next course: Foie Gras.
I have spent a good deal of time in the Perigord region of France, a gastronimic heartland of organic veggies, traditionally-sourced truffles, and premium foie gras, so I’ve been lucky enough to sample this ambrosial food product before, prepared in a variety of ways.
Having said that, the plate I was treated to at Cafe Marquesa was a revelation. My simple slice of lobe was pan-seared and served with roasted Shittake mushrooms, cippolini onions and carrots, and finished with a fine aged balsamic. It melted in my mouth like already melted butter, and was by far the best goose liver I’ve ever tasted.
“This is a special that we put on the menu a month ago,” Kiverina told me. “Usually it’s gone in about an hour after it’s offered.”
The French recommend sweet wines with this delicacy, so my faithful server suggested La Fleur D’Or, 2011, a French sauterne, as an accompaniment.
What would a deluxe meal at a reasonably-priced Key West eatery be without lobster?
My Florida crawfish was tender, shelled, and sliced into medallions. It was paired with creamy grits, pleasantly salty country ham, tomato, scallions, and an aromatic, but not overpowering, garam masala beurre. It too was inventive and exquisite.
After I’d tasted all this seafood, Chef Dailey decided to treat me to his velvety, fall-off-the-bone Domestic Rack of Lamb with a braised petite vegetable vinaigrette, and Dijon mashed potatoes. This arrived with a slightly minty mojo, and a splash of port au jus. (A 2015 Incognito red wine blend would go well with this offering.)
Following this extraordinary entree sample I was privileged to encounter yet another, the delicate and perfect Pan Seared Grouper, with blue crab, baby squash and leek, swimming in a tomato beurre blanc that was to die for. (And not bad with a 2015 Sean Minor Central Coast chardonnay, I’m told.)
It was impossible for me to choose a favorite from among this remarkable array of savory flavors I was treated to. All stretched to the limit my previous notions of gourmet cooking, right down to the sauces I mopped up with my (wonderful!) house bread.
Dessert was equally indulgent: A glorious silky Chocolate Pot de Creme, with vanilla ice cream, fresh berries, and Grand Marnier caramel.
Dining at the Marquesa, with Chef Dailey at the helm, is not just an outstanding meal, or an education. It’s an experience. Take someone you love there. Show them you care, and want them to be blissfully happy!
Cafe Marquesa is located at 600 Fleming St. Reservations are recommended.
For reservations, or more information, call 305-292-1244 or visit http://marquesa.com/
CUTLINE:
Attentive and knowledgeable Cafe Marquesa server Tanya Kiverina presents a sample-size portion of Shrimp & Grits.
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