BY TERRY SCHMIDA
KONK LIFE COLUMNIST
Like many rapidly aging people I’ve become something of a creature of habit in my cantankerous years.
I have a particular notion of the perfect pizza, so wherever possible, I resist encroachments upon the usual definitive three-topping formula so familiar to us all.
I was challenged, therefore, on a recent visit to Clemente’s Wood-fired Trolley Pizzeria, once located in a home-built trolley parked at the corner of Duval and Angela streets. It is now nestled into a Mom and Pop Italian restaurant space at 516 Fleming St., though owners Angelo Scola and Eleisha Gallant still like to take their trolley pizza – and its full liquor license – on the road at concerts and other special events.
The Fleming Street eatery is a red-and-white checkered tablecloth, Knickerbocker Avenue kind of place with all manner of authentic Italian delights, including pizza slices lovingly prepared to order, using as many imported and from-scratch ingredients as possible. For their authentic New Haven, Conn. pizza, it is proudly baked in a brick oven constructed by Scola himself.
Hospitality lives here. The couple, originally from Rhode Island, take food seriously, though never so seriously that they’re not quick with a smile and a refill.
On my recent visit, my out-of-town guest and I were treated to an impressive full meal that began with Baby’s House Salad, combining chopped romaine lettuce with cucumbers, cherry tomatoes, avocados, red onions, chick peas and carrots. It was topped with imported Gorgonzola cheese and Eleisha’s zesty homemade Italian dressing.
Now, I’ve never been a huge fan of Ricotta cheese. (No real reason why. Why did George H.W. Bush hate broccoli?) I just never liked it, preferring a glorious fresh mozzarella or burata. But the whole point of dining out is the opportunity to sample exotic flavors. So I’m here to sample whatever is put in front of me. And I do.
Mostly out of blind faith that these two seasoned restaurateurs would never subject me to an unpleasant experience I accepted their offer of a sumptuous feast of Meatball & Ricotta pie, topped with plenty of heavenly homemade crumbled meatballs and marinara sauce, mozzarella, and Parmesan cheeses and, yes, veins of imported ricotta. After a few bites I finally had the cosmic culinary explosion that comes when an edible light bulb goes off over your head. Ricotta isn’t meant to be spread on crackers. It belongs among the melange of ingredients that set it off, ideally atop Clemente’s wood-fired pie.
With this realization as fresh in my mind as the cheese on my pizza, we polished off the remainder of the pie with educated gusto.
To expose us to their thick crust custom-made slices, they served us the Honey Bacon pizza, with a garlic and olive oil glaze, hickory smoked bacon, caramelized onion, mozzarella, and honey.
Sweet-and-savory has always be somewhat suspect to me, so this was yet another taste revelation, satisfying and filling to boot.
Straight sweet has never been a problem for me, however, and the homemade Tiramisu was the perfect finale to the meal for both of us.
Looking and feeling like a happy python that just ate a puppy, I waddled from Clemente’s, my dining companion in tow, in search of a place to lie down.
Long live pizza. Viva Clemente’s! ν
Clemente’s Pizzeria is open from noon to late night from Monday though Saturday, and from 4 to 10 p.m. Sundays Credit cards are accepted. Free delivery is available throughout Key West. Any pizza or slice can be made gluten-free.
For more information, call 305-900-7035 or find them on Facebook.
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