TERRY’S PICKY PALATE / Brunch with my brother at Antonia’s Restaurant

BY TERRY SCHMIDA

KONK LIFE STAFF WRITER

I don’t get to see my brother Kevin all that often. So, when he made a rare foray into town recently, I figured our meal out should also be an unusual “black swan”-type event. Namely, brunch at an eatery I didn’t even know served brunch: Antonia’s Restaurant, at 615 Duval St.

Though Antonia’s has for decades been widely regarded as home to some of the finest Italian food and drink in Key West, management’s promotion of its brunch options has been somewhat muted – though that appears to be changing. A smallish but succulent brunch menu adorns the restaurant’s midday menu, with some scintillating culinary concoctions, as well as two-for-one deals on the Bloody Mary’s, Mimosas, and Belinis that so many enjoy as part of an extended early-to-midday feast.

My brother, who is a great cook and a discriminating diner, joined me in digging into the fantastic feast that began with the Maine Lobster Benedict. This was a scrumptious melange of poached eggs, prosciutto de Parma, toasted ciabatta bread, tomato, Hollandaise sauce, and salsa verde, stuffed with plenty of delicious Maine lobster meat.

Next up was a gazpacho, with plenty of of basil and crème fraiche, which could rival my Mom’s own take on this Spanish summer soup. It was hearty, yet refreshing, like gazpacho should be. At the same time, we nibbled on Jumbo U-6 Shrimp Scampi, with white wine, garlic, butter, and crushed red pepper, all in perfect proportion to shrimp so big, they looked like small lobsters – and tasted just as sweet.

What would a meal at Antonia’s be without at least one pasta dish? At Manager Brad Long’s suggestion, we gorged ourselves on Tortellachi, a new menu item featuring beef and veal ravioli in a sauce of peas, toasted pine nuts, brown butter, and veal demi glace.

But Long wasn’t done yet.

At his urging we tucked into the Antonia’s Burger, a creation so divine, that to call it a “burger” seems almost an injustice. The oversized lean beef and veal patty was perfectly seasoned and cooked, and loaded up with crispy pancetta, caramelized onions, fontina cheese, and herb caper aioli, all set on a ciabatta bun. Deelish! On the side was a heap of deliciously roasted fingerling potatoes, and plenty of arugula and other mixed greens. Don’t even THINK about ruining this one with mustard or – heaven forbid – ketchup.

I don’t imbibe, but all along the way, Long kept my brother’s glass full of wines perfectly selected for each dish, including a sparkling Prosecco Rose unique in Key West to Antonia’s, and a Pertimall Veneto, which went perfectly with the burger, and pasta.

This was by far the greatest brunch I’ve enjoyed in some time, and upon the conclusion of our meal, Kevin remarked to me “I’m going to have to come to Key West more often,” signaling his approval as well.

Brunch at Antonia’s helped foster a little brotherly love between us. May it do the same for you and your loved ones!

Antonia’s is open for breakfast, brunch, lunch, and dinner, from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Saturday. Credit cards are accepted. Don’t miss Antonia’s sister restaurants, Little Pearl, and Thirsty Mermaid. Ask about the $10 locals’ pasta special, taking place through mid-October.

For a reservation, or more information, call 305-294-6565, email [email protected], or visit www.antoniaskeywest.com/

[email protected]

CUTLINE:

Brad Long, of Antonia’s Restaurant, serving up brunch and more, with a smile.

[livemarket market_name="KONK Life LiveMarket" limit=3 category=“” show_signup=0 show_more=0]