BY TERRY SCHMIDA, KONK LIFE FOOD EDITOR

“My big fish must be somewhere,” Hem wrote in “The Old Man and the Sea,” and I seem to have found it, among other delicacies from the sea and land, at Four Marlins, 1435 Simonton St.

Located in the Reach Key West, Curio Collection by Hilton, the recently opened eatery is Key West casual, from ambiance to food.Under the watchful gaze of the archetypal island author, (immortalized in a famous wall photo with his catch of four large marlins). Executive Chef for The Reach, Kevin Spencer, has assumed the top job in the kitchen of a place where “good vibes only” live from the welcome mat to the zephyr-swept ocean side dining area.

The oak and brass of the now-defunct Spencers’ (no relation) by the Sea, which once occupied this space, have given way to the more contemporary open floor plan, greater natural light, and additional outdoor seating of Four Marlins. But the steaks (remain) superb; the local catch fresh as can be; and the bar and lounge, sleek and inviting.

Upstate New York-born “ECR” Spencer brings 20 years of culinary experience to my table, along with the food, and a love for the cooking of the South Carolina Lowcountry about which he is so enthusiastic and knowledgeable.

His hot-selling Avocado Toast was a perfect breakfast for me. Just ripe avocado, delicately sliced, and heaped on rustic multigrain bread with a vegetable escobeche and a perfectly poached egg. And fresh-squeezed orange juice.

Those who prefer true “a la carte” brunching are welcome to select their eye-opening meal from the handy “Roaming Continental” fresh express on wheels passing by the table right on schedule.

Yes, they really have Lobster Empanadas on the lunch and dinner menus, made with tender minced Maine lobster claw meat and wrapped in a buttery, pastry pocket with a corn puree and cilantro crema. They’re a new fave of mine, as is the Island Hot Fried Chicken Sandwich, straight from the air-fryer, and served piping hot on a kaiser roll with house-made island habanero sauce and plenty of yummy yucca fries. The to-die-for Crab Cake Sliders, slathered in a Key Lime-mustard remoulade were pretty tasty, too.

Four Marlins Salad was the perfect palate cleanser, but also substantial, with lots of goat cheese, Florida citrus, tender baby greens, heart of palm, and house-made Key Lime vinaigrette.

With the emphasis on “hyper local” and a stubborn insistence on sourcing as much as possible, as close as possible, even traditional dinner plates such as the Shrimp and Grits are made special with the additions of Key West Pink shrimp, sharp cheddar, smoky bacon, and grilled scallions.

Desserts are also top-notch. I loved the Hummingbird Cake and Rum Lava Cake. And the selection of high caliber liquor drinks is copious. The Hemingway Daiquiri, holds pride of place at “Happiest Hour,” 60 full minutes, as measured by the actual hour glass set up there. From 5 to 6 p.m. daily patrons enjoy half-off on all drinks at the bar or in the nearby lounge.

This month, excluding Valentine’s Day, locals with a Monroe County ID can take advantage of Four Marlins buy-one, get-one of equal or lesser value entree promotion for diners seated by 6:30 p.m.

On Valentine’s Day, in addition to the regular menu, patrons can treat their sweetheart to a remarkable four-course menu, including a glass of Champagne, for a special price.

Staff are even planning a lunch and dinner special for Super Bowl Sunday, with 1/2-off all draft beer, two-for-one Margaritas, and a slider special representing both the KC Chiefs and the SF 49ers.

So, make like Hemingway’s gallant old toiler on the sea, and come looking for your big fish. Find it at Four Marlins.

Four Marlins is open for breakfast from 7 a.m. to 11 a.m.; lunch from 11:30 a.m. to 4 p.m.; and dinner from 5:30 to 10 p.m.; seven days per week.The bar opens daily at 11 a.m.Credit cards are accepted and free valet parking is available.For more information, or to make a reservation, call 305-296.5000 or visit Opentable.

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