TERRY’S PICKY PALATE / Write What You Know Dept.: Sampling the entire menu at HMF Sidecar Speakeasy

BY TERRY SCHMIDA

KONK LIFE COLUMNIST

Many years ago when I was a brand-new food reporter in Key West the photographer I was working with nearly choked on his beer one night when he overheard me assure the manager of a newly-opened restaurant that I really was looking forward to sampling the ENTIRE menu at the place. Presumably at more than one sitting.

A fire, as it turned out, waterfront real estate prices, and even exotic dancers, all conspired to deny me my bucket-list quest to appraise “one of each” of the eatery’s offerings – all of which were actually named after local personalities, i.e: the Tom Oosterhoudt All Beef Wiener, etc.

This fond food memory resurfaced recently when I was offered the chance to sample yes, the entire (sharing-friendly) menu at HMF Sidecar Speakeasy, the relatively new and fabo resto located at the time-honored  Casa Marina Waldorf Astoria Resort, 1500 Reynolds St. This unique opportunity allowed me to truly evaluate the culinary artistry of Chef Alex Beaumont, a Quebec City native who earned his stripes, in part, by cooking at the Chateau Frontenac, the most famous hotel in Canada’s (mostly) French-speaking province. Though he handles food and beverages at all Waldorf Astoria’s area kitchens, (including those at The Reach,) it is at the Casa Marina, a grand old hotel like the Frontenac, where he seems most at home.

My feast began with the Key West Smoked Jumbo Pink Shrimp Cocktail.

While some local restaurants have switched to imported shrimp, “Chef,” as he’s affectionately referred to at the Casa, has stubbornly resisted doing so. What’s more, his cocktail is smoked (and delicious) and served with a dipping “sauce” that’s actually a “rustic Bloody Mary gazpacho,” along with the tangy lemon and lime wedge garnish. If you like Key West shrimp you’ll LOVE this presentation.

Next up was the Heritage Farm Pork Belly Bao Bun, a set of three Asian-inspired taco-esque rolls stuffed full of tender meat, a sweet soy barbecue glaze, papaya/apple slaw, and house-made spicy pickles. (I’m a big pickle guy, and could munch on these all afternoon!)

But I digress.

Lobster Chorizo Flatbread was so delectable I almost stalled here as I savored the tender local lobster, marinated artichoke, sundried tomato, arugula and basil, all drizzled with a delicate truffle oil. Order a half- or full-portion of this delicacy.

After a quick breather during which I watched head “Mixologist” Maxwell Dead perform the feat of crafting his own-recipe cocktails with aplomb it was back to food tasting, this time with the Hummus Trio. Chef’s tasty traditional, roasted red pepper, and edamame hummus was served with crunchy crudites – including unusual watermelon radishes, celery and carrot sticks, and cauliflower.

Chef’s fave dish, and probably mine too, is the Crispy Green Tomato and Buratta salad, which includes a generous portion of the squirt-with-a-knife cheese that really gives this dish its rare flavor.

An Imported Artisan Cheese Board – with fabulous charcuterie add-on, (including homemade pastrami) was fantastique, and the three desserts, including a to-die-for dense french chocolate cake called “Opera,” and a mouth-watering Strawberry Short Cake. Simply sublime.

I could go on but, well, you get the picture. For a unique Key West experience, head over to sample this extraordinary menu, ask Dean to mix up one of his iced cocktails, relax, and enjoy.

And I will leave it to some other lucky duck to review the tempting drink menu – after they get to know it all.

Fun fact of the week:

All the food reviewed in this column gets eaten!

HMF Sidecar is open from 6 p.m. to midnight, daily. Credit cards are accepted. Valet parking is available.

For more information, call 305-296-3535.

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