Key West Kitchen

 

 

Buttermilk – An Underappreciated Miracle Worker

 

 

By Kerry Shelby

 

Buttermilk, to some, sounds a bit musty and old-fashioned, a byproduct from a bygone age that really doesn’t fit into today’s lifestyle. Nothing could be further from the truth. Buttermilk is one of the most versatile and flavor-rich ingredients around. Bearing little resemblance to the thin, milky liquid left after churning butter, today’s buttermilk is a constructed cultured sour milk whose high acidity and probiotic qualities provide unique benefits to modern food. Using buttermilk and baking soda instead of yeast produces extremely light and fluffy pancakes and biscuits. Mixing it with sour cream and herbs makes an outstanding salad dressing as well as a bright, tangy sauce for grilled fish. Its acidic nature makes it a highly effective brining liquid for chicken before frying it (try it and you’ll never fry chicken without it!), adding flavor to the meat as well as tenderizing it.

 

 

I grew up on a farm in the South, so the uses of buttermilk have always been fairly well known to me. I remember my grandmother pulling a hot skillet of cornbread straight from the oven, tearing off a piece and submerging in a tall glass of cold buttermilk for a midafternoon snack. The acid perfectly balanced the fat in the bread, and the juxtaposition of the hot and cold was irresistible. I preferred the crust while she opted for the soft inside of the bread, so we were perfect snacking partners. Maybe your guests aren’t ready for such a rustic use of buttermilk yet, but do introduce them (and yourself) to this delicious and versatile super-food.

 

 

Try this chilled soup as a simple and fresh starter to any meal, from a sunny outdoor lunch to a sophisticated, multi-course dinner. It makes a stunning beginning to an eggy brunch, or as an introduction to shrimp salad sandwiches with crunchy homemade potato chips. It also fits in well as an elegant first or second course that cleanses and jumpstarts the taste buds before digging into a pork roast or a juicy grilled steak.

 

 

Chilled Buttermilk with Fennel and Cucumber

 

 

Cut one small white onion in half and thinly slice (use a mandolin if you prefer). Do the same with ½ of a fennel bulb (core first) and 2 medium cucumbers. Set aside.

 

 

In a large bowl, whisk together 8 cups buttermilk, 1 cup sour cream, ¼ cup apple cider vinegar and 2 tablespoons salt. Mix in the sliced vegetables and gently stir to evenly distribute them. Cover with plastic and let refrigerate for at least 1 hour or overnight.   The acidic buttermilk will soften and slightly break down the vegetables.

 

 

Chill serving bowls for at least 15 minutes. To serve, ladle the soup into the bowls and garnish with whatever mix of herbs, sprouts, or flowers you may have on hand, such as green onions, dill, fennel fronds, cucumber flowers or young radish or arugula sprouts.

Serves 4 to 6                    Wine A white wine with enough acidity to match the buttermilk, like Pinot Gris

 

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