Olive Oil Worth Knowing More About
By Kerry Shelby
Olive oil is something that most of us take for granted. Most recipes usually start off with “Heat a tablespoon of olive oil” or something along those lines, but we rarely think about the oil, where it comes from, or what it means to people all over the world.
Recently, my friend Mary asked me to recommend a good olive oil and, while I did mention my go-to, a Spanish brand called Zoe, I realized that I really didn’t know much more to suggest. I use most any brand when cooking since the heat breaks down the oil and nuance is less important. Some experts even prefer oils without the extra virgin designation since they are usually more full-bodied and are considerably less expensive. Quality really comes into play, though, when you are using it as a finishing dressing on, say, salads or vegetables. Those are the times to pay up and get a good extra virgin olive oil with plenty of fruit, but with a light, clean finish.
During the 2014 growing season, the olive crop worldwide was hit particularly hard with drought, disease and insect damage that severely limited the crop and, thusly, the economic viability of a great number of olive growers. Sources indicate that we may be seeing a much more limited supply of olive oil in the coming months and almost certainly higher prices. Quality may come into question as well as some suppliers may use lesser oils to extend their supply. Check labels closely for proof of authenticity, particularly on oils from Italy and Spain, two of the hardest hit regions. Ideally, the label will say “produced and bottled by” which, by law, means that the olives have been grown on the estate that is selling them. Better yet are bottles marked with a harvest date.
Chef Evan Funke of Bucato in Los Angeles makes a spicy, garlicky olive oil mixture that in a recent Tasting Table article he calls his “secret weapon.” He essentially combines the chili-infused olio santo, or “holy oil” used in southern Italy with bagna cauda, the garlicky anchovy oil from the north. He refers to it as battuto, an Italian word (roughly meaning “beaten”) that seems to be generically used when referring to chopped herbs or vegetables. It makes a great base for Caesar salad dressing, a marinade for sturdy white fish or drizzled over vegetables and cheeses on antipasti. See kwkitchen.com for more on how use this “secret weapon.”
White anchovies are available at Fausto’s on Fleming in the refrigerated section across from the meat counter. They are absolutely delicious!
Battuto
Adapted from Chef Evan Funke of Bucato
Combine a cup of good extra virgin olive oil with 6 white anchovy filets, 2 gloves of garlic, 1 seeded red jalapeno and a scattering of red pepper flakes in a blender. Pulse until smooth, then whisk in another cup of olive oil. Season with a little salt and refrigerate for up to a week.
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