In A Parisian State Of Min

 

By Kerry Shelby

 

I recently returned from a short trip to Paris with my wife and I can’t stop thinking about how the French can turn minimal, simple ingredients into dishes that are transcendental. Some of our best meals (except for a traditional splurge at Le Grand Vefour!) were in nondescript but homey bistros with worn leather banquettes, wobbly benches and loud, wine-fueled conversation from a tightly-packed crowd of happy diners. Menus were simple, short lists of classic dishes: Onion soup, oysters, pate en croute, steak frites, duck with olives, or roasted codfish. Nothing fancy, but wow, how amazing when you take that first bite!

 

 

I’ve given up on making dishes that taste just like those in a French bistro, but I have fun coming up with riffs off that style. One of my favorites is grilled bistro-style steaks and French fries made from a potato that is baked before frying. Both are easy and fun and, while they may not be just like the ones you had at that little place on the Left Bank, they make for a simple lunch or dinner that, along with some good red wine, conjures up memories of your last time in Paris.

 

 

Grilled Bistro-Style Flank Steaks and Baked Potato French Fries

 

 

Rub six baking potatoes with salt and bake for about 45 minutes at 350 until the flesh is just barely starting to soften. Cool and refrigerate until cold (or for up to 4 days).

 

 

For the steaks, combine four tablespoons of softened butter with 2 anchovy filets, mashing to combine thoroughly (the butter can be made days ahead and stored in plastic wrap in the refrigerator). Rub four flank steaks with salt and pepper and allow them to stand at room temperature for about 30 minutes. Light a grill and, when very hot, add steaks, top with some butter and cook 2 or 3 minutes. Turn, top with butter and cook, covered, for about another 2 or 3 minutes (adjust time for thickness). Let steaks rest while you fry the potatoes.

 

 

Carefully cut the cold potatoes into thin, wedge-shaped sticks and fry in about three inches of very hot canola oil until just crisp and starting to turn golden. Drain on towels, salt generously or, for an interesting twist, toss with a gremolata of finely diced lemon zest, garlic and parsley. Tres bien!

 

 

Slice the steaks against the grain, top with remaining anchovy butter (remember to save some) and serve with fries.

 

 

Serves 4

Suggested wine pairing A rich, earthy French red, like ones from Languedoc or Bourgogne

 

 

Paris update!!Thanks to a tip from a friend who is now living in Paris, our new favorite spot is a little wine and oyster bar called Le Baron Rouge (that’s right, the Red Baron!) in the quiet, village-like 12th arrondissement. Since time was running out on our trip, we popped in just as they opened at 10 a.m. and slurped plump, briny oysters with cold white wine while everyone else was still waking up with coffee! It may be my new favorite breakfast!

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